So winter is upon us and most of you began winterizing our swimming pools back in September.  If you’re wondering if you’ve winterized your pool properly and are ready for cold months click here.  There’s also a lot of states that “technically” don’t do anything special for their pool this time of year (Arizona, parts of CA, NV, and many others).

Regardless of where you reside there’s a few things that we can (and should) be doing this time of year to be prepared for the next swim season…   

Here’s a few ideas…

1.  Great time for basic equipment maintenance such as a sand chage, DE clean, replace o-rings (at the pump and the backwash valve and filter).

2.  Have any return side water leaks that need to be addressed?  Common spots are directly about the pump angle prior to water being filtered and then again at the push/pull valve as filtered water makes its way back to the pool.  If you have a top or side mount multi port valve, be sure to check it out and replace the spider gasket (nothing more than an o-ring).  This is a great time to do any plumbing work and get rid of the “bandaids” you may have used to “get by” during the warmer months.

3.  Do a swimming pool drain/refill to bring in fresh water.  This can do wonders for calcium issues and TDS (total dissolved solids).  Ever notice that you’re adding more chems than you used to add and actually get the same or less result?  TDS, water hardness and other “buildups” that naturally take place over time cause your water to become aggressive and nonreactive.  This is something I wouldn’t consider for most until Feb/March (to protect the surface of your pool).  It’s just too cold out currently in most of the country (in CA, AZ, NV and a few others you’d have to do it very quickly).  While the pool is drained you may consider doing an acid bath to clean up the surface a bit.

If you reside in a state where it’s not necessary to drain the pool this time of year, be sure to cutback on the amount of hours you’re running the equipment.  During the swim season you’d like about 8 hours (or enough time where one complete cycle of water gets turned over).  During winter months you can cut this amount of time in half.  Also, check with your utility company and the time plan you’re on…make sure you’re running during “non peak” hours – this will save you a few bucks a month.

Set yourself up for success for the next swim season…you and your family will be glad you took some time now to do some “loose ends”. 

You’ll be happier than this dog…

This Dog Did Proper Swimming Pool Maintenance In The Off Season...

Take care,
Terry

P.S.  Feel free to shoot me an email with any questions you’ve got or items that you’d like to see get addressed.  Your feedback helps all of us.

I haven’t really touched on the whole “green” theme in quite some time so I thought I’d revisit this topic and also save you a few bucks…

If you have a pool heater, enjoy these 8 items I’m sharing today – apply ‘em and save yourself some cash each month.

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Also, don’t forget to grab your copy of the Internet’s leading authority on swimming pool maintenance, “Professional Grade, The Ultimate Swimming Pool Maintenance Guide” - it’s stacked full of juicy money and time saving tips that you can begin using immediately.  Go check it out for yourself…I’m 100% confident that you’ll love the material and you’ll also save hundreds of dollars every single year with the information inside it!

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1.  Keep a thermometer in your pool. It will pinpoint accurately the temperature most comfortable for you.

2.  Keep your thermostat at the lowest comfortable setting. Each degree more heat than needed could add more to your monthly fuel cost and use up more energy than necessary.

3.  Mark the “comfort setting” on the thermostat dial. This will prevent accidental or careless over-heating and waste of energy.

4.  Lower thermostat to 70 degrees when pool is to be unused for three or four days. For longer periods, shut the heater off. You will save money on fuel consumption and help conserve energy.

5.  Protect your pool from wind. Wind above 3 to 5 miles per hour can lower the pool temperature substantially. A hedge, cabana or decorative fence can be an effective windbreak.

6.  Use a pool cover when pool is not in use. This can reduce heat loss by as much as 50%. If you are vacationing for a couple of weeks or shutting down for winter, turn the heater off completely, including any pilot light.

7.  Drain heater completely prior to freezing weather. Freezing water inside the heat exchanger can result in costly repairs.

8.  Get a maintenance checkup annually. It’s your best ounce of prevention.  Being proactive and being ahead of the game can save you a lot of money in the long haul.  The cost is minimal and the service will keep your heater working efficiently for many years.

I truly hope you’ve enjoyed this tidbit…

Feel free to share this message with anyone else who may be searching for ways to reduce their energy costs and save a few bucks.

Wishing you all the best,

Terry

www.FireYourPoolGuy.com

I hope you’re having a great day!

When it comes to heating up and keeping your swimming pool water warm, there are a bunch of myths and half truths floating around…

Today, I’m going to take a quick moment to talk about what works and what doesn’t work to raise the temperature of your pool water. 

Yesterday I had a very nice conversation with a woman who was looking for a way to keep her water warm and extend her swimming season by a month or two. 

Easy and inexpensive task right?

That’s what she thought.  She had been informed that by using a quality pool cover it would essentially “trap” the heat and store it for weeks and even elevate the temperature if it was warm outside for just a few hours a day.

Myth.  There’s simply no truth in that.  I won’t go into extreme detail on how water reacts to outside temperatures, but the important thing is that for a pool to lower or increase its temp by just 3-4% the outside temp must be substantially cooler/warmer for a lengthy period of time. 

The higher the temp outside the water, combined with the lenght of the sustained temperature, the quicker the water will get warmer – the same principles apply (but going in the opposite direction) for water getting cooler.

Let’s chat about ways to heat your swimming pool (things that work well):

There are countless tarps, covers and apparatuses on the market that claim to increase the water temperature.  The fact of the matter is that most of them work…at least moderately well.

At the end of the day, there’s really only a few items that really do actually heat up your swimming pool – don’t by into all the “fads”, questionable marketing and the latest and greatest “gadget”.

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I go into these topics in great detail in “Professional Grade – The Ultimate Swimming Pool Maintenance Guide” - make sure you take a few minutes to check it out.  It’s a real life saver and provides a wealth of rock solid information that should be added to your library.  Don’t forget it’s backed by my unconditional, no hassle guarantee too.  If you’re not happy for any reason let me know so I can process an immediate refund.

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Swimming Pool Cover:  A pool cover by itself WON’T elevate the temp of the water – it can “trap” it and allow the water to maintain its current temp for an extended period of time (depending on outside temps and quality of cover).  A standard size pool (13,000-15,000 gallons) can lose about 5% of its water temp overnight.  A VERY good cover can reduce that number by about half.

The most widely used type is the direct fired natural gas heater because of its low cost, reliability, ease of operation and the wide availability of natural gas. In areas where natural gas is not available, heater models can be furnished equipped to use LP gas or propane gas.

Oil-fired pool heaters are a good choice in areas where natural gas is unavailable but home heating oil is. Electric heaters are generally much less efficient and more costly to operate than natural gas heaters, unless the electricity is hydroelectrically generated.  Using an electric heater can be VERY expensive.

Solar heating ranges from simple “passive” solar – the familiar pool cover that absorbs and transmits some of the sun’s energy to pool water – to “active” solar heating systems. 

Used alone, the passive heating technique merely serves to help keep pool temperatures at existing levels by retaining natural solar heat and preventing its loss. It cannot add heat to build up water temperature beyond what the sun supplies. Active solar uses traditional pool motors to move water from the pool through a system of solar collector panels for heating by the sun. This increases the amount of solar heat added to the pool.

Making sense?  Stick with me here…

So, why not just go solar since it’s “no cost energy”, right?  Isn’t green and “environmentally friendly” and “IN” way to go these days?

Yes and no…I’m all about green and environmentally friendly too, but it must work.  It needs to provide mutual benefit. An adequate solar pool heating system will cost substantially more initially than fuel-fired heaters. It can add 25% to 50% to the cost of building a pool and doing it after the pool is installed can quickly add up to 10K or even more…

Solar systems have definite limitations. To begin with, they require sufficient area in which to install large collector panels, usually on a roof or deck overhang near the pool.

Even in an area like southern California, the total solar collector area needs to be at least equal to 75% (100 % is better) of the pool surface area. This means that if you have a 20 x 40 pool you should have a 20 x 40 collector area available for best results.

You probably would have to increase the size of your electric pump – or provide a second pump – to deliver the pool water to the collector panels. And the pump would have to work almost continuously during most sunlight hours. This means your pump would be running during “peak load” periods when the utilities’ generating plants are often taxed to capacity – and when they charge more per kilowatt than during “off peak” periods.  Now, is this really “green” after all?

Solar heating systems heat slowly – and not at all in cloudy, cool periods. Depending on the collector size and your location and climate, a solar system may not be able to warm the water to your desired temperature, even in the swimming season, except in the afternoon. And there is just not enough solar energy to heat your pool for swimming in the winter, early spring or late fall – no matter how many hours you pump.

With anything, do a lot of research on the heating device that you choose to incorporate.  These are costly investments, but that’s in the eye of the beholder as well.  Your making an investment in your pool and yourself. 

There’s no doubt that a good heater provides tremendous joy and benefits for years to come.  Make sure that you’re maintaining it properly – repairs can/do get very expensive so make sure that you’re running a proper maintenance regiment.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this heater “run down”…

Stay tuned over the next few days.  I’ll be sharing an important note that will discuss a few simple ways to save on energy and things you can do right now to reduce costs associated with heating your pool.

Here’s to you and yours,

Terry
www.FireYourPoolGuy.com

If you’re battling algae, have in the past or you just want to make sure that you know what to do if it ever invades your swimming pool – be sure to read this short post.

The most common cause of algae growth (whether it be yellow, black, pink, etc) is a lack of free chlorine. It can also take place in areas of the pool that has poor or no circulation.

Here’s what I’ve found to be the most effective and efficient way of treating algae once you see it taking place – and always try to treat it as quickly as possible. Without treatment, it will ‘fester’ and multiply pretty rapidly.

Here’s a quick line of action to take if your pool goes green or gets invaded with algae:

1. Shock the water immediately. I recommend using a good HTH Super Shock (although there are several good shock products available on the market place). You can’t over shock a swimming pool.

2. Make sure that the equipment is running 24/7 during this process. Yes, you’ll spend a few bucks in extra power, but circulation is key during this process. It’s a must.

3. Backwash the filter frequently. You cannot over backwash your filter! If you have a sand or D.E. filter, be sure to backwash 5-7 times per day – ore more. There is no downside to excessive backwashing. The cleaner your filter is the better filtration will be. If you have a cartridge filter be sure to hose down the element at least a few times per day during this process.

4. Within just a few hours of shocking your water should turn to a cloudy blue (not clear). When this happens you can speed up the process to get clear water by adding a good water clarifier. I recommend adding this twice a day. Once in the morning and again in the evening – each time after a good backwash.

There you have it. The quickest way to turn around a green pool.

Remember that shock is the only way to kill off bacteria and algae.

Also, be sure to test your conditioner level. This is also known as cyaneric acid. This is what protects the chlorine from the sun – and is VERY important.

I truly hope you’ve enjoyed this little tidbit on algae and how to effectively get rid of it – once and for all.

One of the biggest topics currently in the swimming pool industry is about borax.

What is it?

What does it do?

Should I be using it?

If so, why?

These are questions that a very large number of swimming pool owners around the country are asking themselves right now. It’s also been one of the most frequent topics from emails that I’ve received over the past several months.

This email is specifically designed to bring you up to speed on this exact topic.

There’s a lot to be said about incorporating borax into your swimming pool maintenance regiment, but it’s also important to proceed with caution here.

Borax is essentially nothing more than a buffering agent. I believe this is highly relevant especially under the realm of managing pH levels and the amount (or strength) of hydrogen levels in your pool water.

If you choose to introduce borax into your pool water consider following these basic guidelines:

1. Add slowly – don’t add a lot at the same time. If necessary, even do it over 3-4 days, testing your chlorine and pH before each addition.

2. Do not use laundry detergent that contains borax – be sure to look at the ingredients and make sure borax or sodium tetraborate is the only listed ingredient.

3. Be aware that when you first add borax to your water the pH will more than likely increase dramatically. Not to worry. This is expected to take place.

Once the pH returns to normal levels, because it stays in the water, it will do a much better job (compared to other buffing agents) at keeping your pH levels in check.

Borax is still a relatively new introduction (for this application) and pool suppliers/wholesalers are pushing this very hard to this service industry.

To the best of my knowledge, there have been no long term studies done in reference to the primary ingredients and how it reacts with other chemicals. I encourge you to do your own investigation and research as well.

We just began introducing this to some of our pool clients and have a handful that have allowed us to incorporate this into their chemical treatments. We’re testing and monitoring closely on all elements of their water (metals, TDS, conditioner reactions, combined/free chlorine, pH, etc).

I truly hope this information finds you well.

Terry

Your water is constantly changing. Anything and everything directly and indirectly affects water balance – from sunlight, wind and rain to the oil, dirt and cosmetics which may enter the water.

Continuous filtration and disinfection remove contaminants which keep the water enjoyable, but this is not water balance. I typically define a pool that is “balanced” by having proper levels of pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness.

One may also define ‘balanced water’ as water that is neither corrosive or scaling. This concept is derived from the fact that water will dissolve and “hold” minerals until it becomes saturated and cannot hold any more water in solution.

“Scaling Condition”

When water is considerably less than saturated it is said to be in a corrosive or aggressive condition. When water is over saturated, and

can no longer hold the minerals in solution; this is known as a scaling condition. So then, balanced water is that which is neither over or under saturated.

Water which is under saturated will attempt to saturate itself by dissolving everything in contact with it in order to build up its content. Water whichis over saturated will attempt to throw off some of its content by precipitating minerals out of solution in the form of scale.

How do we know when our water is over or under saturated?

I was starting to wonder if you’d ever ask.

After any good rain (one that’s measurable), I would recommend testing the following items…

1.  pH

2.  Alkalinity

3.  Calcium Hardness

Most standard test kits will painlessly test these very important variables.  If you don’t have one and you’re looking to pick one up, I would highly recommend grabbing a Taylor Test Kit.

They’re a bit on the pricey side, but it will last for years and years and years…

I hope this note helps you out a bit in better understanding the characteristics of water and what to do after a good rain…

Terry

www.FireYourPoolGuy.com

“What does Ebay have to do with my swimming pool?”

Good question.

One of the greatest ways to save BIG BUCKS on all of your pool needs is by visiting www.Ebay.com.  You’ll find some GREAT BARGAINS.

Believe it or not, sometimes you can actually get chemicals, pool parts and even outdoor furniture BELOW WHOLESALE PRICES! A quick word of caution…

Make sure that you pay attention to shipping charges.  Many ebay retailers will dramatically reduce the price of the item(s) that you’re purchasing, but they’ll jack up shipping costs to a point where financially it just doesn’t make sense.

If you’re not using ebay now, YOU SHOULD BE!

Check it out for yourself…

It’s the LARGEST online auction in the ENTIRE world.  It’s easy to navigate and to find what you’re looking for, but beware…

It’s HIGHLY ADDICTIVE.    

Terry Duff

Founder – Fire Your Pool Guy

The pH is one of the most important factors in pool water balance and it should be tested and adjusted on a weekly basis. pH is the measure of how acid/ alkaline the swimming pool water is.  I also frequently describe it as the amount or strength of the hydrogen in the water.  A pH of 7.0 is neutral – below 7.0 is acidic, above 7.0 is alkaline. It should be kept within the range of 7.2-7.8.

What happens when the pool is too acidic?
(pH is low):

1.  If your swimming pool is Marbelite or plaster, the pool water will begin to dissolve the surface, creating a roughness
which is ideal for pool algae growth. A similar result occurs in the grouting of tiled swimming pools.

2.  Metals corrode – and this includes swimming pool equipment, pipe fittings, pump connections, etc. As the swimming pool walls and metal parts corrode, sulphates are formed. These sulphates are released from the water onto the walls and floor of the
swimming pool causing ugly brown and black stains.

3.  Chlorine, which is used as a disinfectant in the swimming pool water, is activated and lost to the atmosphere very quickly.  The water is not being sanitised, and we are throwing away our money by adding chlorine when the pH is too low.

4.  When we swim, our eyes and nose burn. Our swimwear fades and perishes. Our skin gets dry and itchy.

What happens when the pool is too alkaline?
(pH is high):

1.  The calcium in the swimming pool water combines with carbonates and forms scale, just like in our kettles. This calcification is seen  most at the waterline, where it traps dust and dirt, turning black with time.

2.  The swimming pool water starts to become cloudy or murky and it loses its sparkle.  Catch yourself buying clarifier frequently?  This could be the result of your pH being too high.

3.  The calcium carbonate has a tendency to plate out on the sand in the swimming pool filter, effectively turning it into cement.  So your filter becomes a cement filter, and loses its ability to trap dirt and other debris from the pool water.

4.  As the pH rises, the power of the chlorine to act on foreign particles is lost. At a pH of 8.0 the pool can only use 20% of the chlorine you put in. So 80% of it goes to waste and you would need  5 times as much chlorine to provide the disinfection you need.

5.  In alkaline swimming pool water, the swimmers suffer too. Our eyes and nose burn and our skin gets dry and itchy.

I truly hope this information was beneficial.  If you have any questions or you’re experiencing further issues please don’t
hesitate to shoot me a quick email.  I’ll be more than happy to assist.

To you and yours,

Terry Duff
Founder – Fire Your Pool Guy

The outside temperature should not exceed about 75 degrees (or so).
 
If the weather is too warm, you run the risk of cracking the surface of your pool.  Not a good thing.
 
There are several reasons why you should be draining your pool every 2-3 seasons.  One of the most important is because of the TDS (total disolved solids) build up that takes place over time. 
 
Test TDS every 4-6 months – without exception.
 
Here’s a good example of “WHY”:
 
In the summertime, temperatures reach 100-120 degrees. Combined with low humidity and windy conditions the evaporation rate in your swimming pool is greatly excelled. When water evaporates, only H2O dissipates. The TDS remains in that body of water. The pool water is continuously replenished with fresh water supply through the automatic water fill. The water coming into the pool has a TDS factor. Thus a rise in TDS.
 
Example: Fill a quart container with water at 900ppm TDS. Evaporate 1/2 of that water from the container.  You now have 1/2 quart of water with the TDS factor of 1800ppm. Fill the container back to its original level with Distilled water (0 TDS), and you will have your original quart of water at 900ppm TDS. The water that is being used to replenish pools is not 0 TDS, but may have a TDS factor as high as 900ppm.
 
Perform the same experiment as before. This time, fill the container to its original level with water having 900 ppm TDS. You now have 1 quart of water with a TDS factor of 1350ppm. This is what happens in your swimming pool.
 
In addition to this, everything that enters the body of water; dirt, leaves, chemicals, bodies, ect….ect.

EVERYTHING has a TDS factor, which contributes to the overall rise of TDS in that body of water. In some regions, i.e.: coastal California, climate is not the main reason for a rise in TDS, rather chemicals being used. Calcium hardness, for example, is the main contributing factor in these regions due to use of Calcium and Sodium Hypochlorite.
 
When the TDS level of pool water rises, subtle problems will begin to occur: calcium deposits on pool at water line, brown manganese stains, salty taste to water, irritation to skin and eyes, etc.. As the TDS rises higher and higher, these problems amplify to a point where the pool will begin to deteriorate.
 
At high levels of TDS, calcium will begin to replace the plaster in gunite pools. This will expose itself as a dime sized circle on the plaster. At this point the calcium deposits at the water line will have grown to resemble a stalactite and manganese stains may be very evident.
 
The absolute maximum acceptable level of TDS is about 1500.  I prefer to keep it less than 1200.  When the TDS is extremely high, the water has a tendency to become “non reactive” to things that you’re putting in it (like acid and chlorine). 
 
Check this a few times per year and, if necessary,  drain your pool.  In the long run, this will save you lots of dough and headaches too.
 
Terry Duff
Founder  – FireYourPoolGuy.com

Hi!

I truly hope this email finds you well.

One very common question among swimming pool owners Is…

“What type of salt water system should I be using?”

Actually, that’s a pretty good question.

There’s a TON of them out on the market. If you’re even considering picking one up, I would recommend reading this short message from top to bottom.

Over the years I’ve seen and reviewed countless systems. Let’s face it – there’s a lot of VERY GOOD systems available on the market.

Here are my top choices:

Here are a few options to point you in the right direction. These are systems that I have personally used and maintained, however, that doesn’t mean they’ll be the best solution for your needs.

This is meant to point you in the right direction and provide you with some different options to look at. If you have any questions please feel free to email me.

Please also be sure to do your own searching as well – this is designed to provide a ‘road map’ if you’re looking to replace your current unit

or if you’re on the market for a new one.

For Residential Environments:

Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator

Aqua Rite has been a true industry leader and frequently gaining more and more popularity. Aqua Rite is owned by Hayward, one of the most respected and well known names in the swimming pool industry.

Pentair IntelliChlor

This is a great solution that’s easily operated and the ‘viewer’ is simple to read and understand as well. I will admit that this system contains one of the easiest to understand and operate panels on the market today.

For under $800.00 (including the power module), this model is tough to beat from convenience and effectiveness.

Zodiac Clearwater

Zodiac produces GREAT PRODUCTS. Hands down, my personal favorite from a convenience and maintenance standpoint. Zodiac is the largest chlorinator manufacturer in the world. There are 2 points that really stand out with many chlorinators in their product line:

1. The LM Series incorporates a unique Super Chlorination feature which can be activated at the touch of your fingertips. This is an extremely quick way to automatically boost chlorine levels to compensate for heavy bather load or increases in temperature.

2. Actually does a pretty good job when it comes to ‘self cleaning’. Many units advertise them to be self cleaning, but their are few systems on the market that do a decent job. This is one of them.

If you’re currently shopping for a salt system, I would highly recommend sticking with one of the ‘big 3′. From a value standpoint and getting a good bang for your buck, they’re tough to beat.

If you want the ‘full scoop’ with NO DRIBBLE when it comes to salt systems or any other facet of your swimming pool, please be sure to visit:

www.fireyourpoolguy.com

“Professional Grade” is jam packed with INVALUABLE tips to save you massive amounts of time, money and energy with your swimming pool.

For many swimming pool owners this is their ONE SINGLE RESOURCE of information that they use when it comes to maintaining one of the most expensive assets they’ll every own – their swimming pool. This should be your ‘one stop’, single resource as well.

Be sure to get yours by clicking below…

www.fireyourpoolguy.com

Wishing you all the best in everything you do,

Terry